Lobsters & Lighthouses: Two Days in Portland, Maine
We arrived in Portland, Maine Sunday afternoon and said farewell to the Amtrak Downeaster. The two-and-a-half-hour trip from Boston to Maine by train was relaxing and an exciting alternative to flying. We were excited because we were about to spend the next two days in Portland, Maine. The second leg of our Boston, Lobster, Lighthouse Tour.
Portland, Maine is a pretty walkable city if you’re going to stay in town. If you walk too far and don’t want to walk back, there are plenty of Ubers. Since we wanted to visit the lighthouses and drive up to Acadia National Park, we decided to go ahead and rent a car.
Harraseeket Inn – Lunch in Freeport
Check-in time at the Portland Harbor Hotel was not until later in the afternoon, so we drove about 20 miles north to Freeport to spend the afternoon eating and shopping for things that we really did’nt need. First, we stopped for lunch at The Harraseeket Inn. There is something warm and cozy about this inn.
We had lunch in the Broad Arrow Tavern with its open kitchen and wood-fired oven and grill in a casual hunting lodge atmosphere. I recommend the clam chowder. It got us in the right frame of mind to visit the L.L. Bean store just steps away.
L.L.Bean in Freeport
The L.L.Bean store is the main attraction in Freeport and is open 24 hours a day, 7 days a week. In fact, they say their doors never lock. That is until the pandemic hit anyway. The original store features indoor ponds and waterfalls, along with a massive fish tank. Don’t forget to take a picture in front of the famous boot!
Freeport Village Station
Known for being one of the best shopping destinations in the USA, Freeport has hundreds of stores that will delight everyone. With its blend of premium international and local brands, the downtown area has something for everyone. You can easily spend all day wandering the Freeport Village Station. The outlet stores are all set up like a 20th century Maine Village to keep the small-town charm.
Portland Harbor Hotel
It was getting time for check-in, so we headed back to Portland. The Portland Harbor Hotel is a charming boutique hotel centrally located downtown in the historic Old Port district and within walking distance to countless shops, restaurants, and attractions.
The Portland Harbor Hotel has an upscale, cozy, and nautical-chic atmosphere. Each room has sleek wood floors and cozy furniture that will make you feel relaxed as soon as you walk through the door. Our room was on the first floor with a view of the courtyard.
There is casual, relaxed fine dining at the hotel’s BlueFin North Atlantic Seafood Restaurant. When the weather permits, you can dine in the outdoor garden courtyard. The fire pit is a popular spot to relax with cocktails or a glass of wine. We ate here on our last night in Portland. Will talk more on that later. After resting up, we got ready for our reservation at Scales.
Scales Restaurant (Dinner)
Located right on the Maine Wharf with some beautiful views, Scales is a traditional New England restaurant with some modern touches. You can enjoy classic seafood as well as locally sourced land grub while enjoying the view of a working harbor.
This was one of the best meals of our entire Boston, Maine trip. I had the lobster roll with a half dozen oysters and Brenda enjoyed the Pan Roasted Halibut with brown butter and hazelnuts. Delicious! The service at Scales was first-class. Anna (our server) made sure anything we needed was swiftly at the table and with a smile. What a great restaurant to celebrate my birthday in. Do yourself a favor though and make a reservation. The wait time can be long if you don’t.
Central Provisions
Another good choice for dinner is Central Provisions. With its cozy, casual atmosphere, the focus is on small plates of whatever is local, fresh, and delicious by the season. Central Provisions is one of the most popular restaurants in Portland so you are gonna need a reservation here. We did not get a chance to eat here but hear good things from many folks.
Bayside American Cafe (Breakfast)
Today, was a perfect day to tour the lighthouses, but first a nice hearty breakfast. Relax in the eclectic, casual atmosphere of the Bayside American Cafe. How does a cinnamon bun pancake sound? It is one of the most popular brunch spots in the city. The restaurant fills up fast so get there early if you want breakfast before heading out to start your day. The syrup is 100 percent Maine maple.
The Lighthouse Tour
For more than 200 years, lighthouses have stood tall along Maine’s rugged coast, helping sailors steer clear of shallow spots and avoid crashing into the rocky shores. There are 65 lighthouses all along Maine’s coast, inlets, and islands. 5 of these lighthouses are within 20 miles of Portland. A visit to Portland isn’t complete without seeing one or all of its five lighthouses.
Portland Breakwater Lighthouse “Bug Light”
Lovingly known as Bug Light, the Portland Breakwater Light is a small yet stunning lighthouse in South Portland, Maine. You can walk right up to this tiny lighthouse in Bug Light Park. The park is a great place to see views of the harbor and Portland from afar.
Spring Point Ledge Lighthouse
To reach the next stop on our tour of Portland lighthouses, you must first wind through the oceanside campus of the Southern Maine Community College. The Spring Point Ledge Lighthouse stands 54-feet high. Be very careful walking out to the lighthouse. The rocks are uneven and can get really slippery when wet.
Portland Head Light
Adjacent to Fort Williams Park, The Portland Head Light is the most photographed lighthouse in America, and also the oldest in Maine. Commissioned by George Washington and built in 1791, Portland Head Light is the most majestic lighthouse in Maine. The lighthouse sits at the entrance to Casco Bay in the quaint village of Cape Elizabeth.The jagged rocks, crashing waves, and beautiful shape of the shore make it perfect for photos. Visiting the Portland Head Light is the quintessential Maine experience.
Ram Island Ledge Light
While you enjoy the stunning Portland Head Light, look towards the waters of Casco Bay to spot the Ram Island Ledge Light. The Ram Island Ledge Lighthouse is the only lighthouse on the list that requires a boat. You will have to view and photograph this light from the Portland Head Lighthouse. The Ram Island Ledge Light marks the northern entrance into Portland’s outer harbor.
Two Lights
Cape Elizabeth is home to two lighthouses known as Two Lights, located in Cape Elizabeth at the southwestern entrance to Casco Bay near Two Lights State Park, just south of Portland. Unfortunately, both beacons are on private property, so you can’t get too close. But, you can still appreciate them from afar. The easternmost light tower is still active. For the best view of this Portland lighthouse, park near The Lobster Shack at Two Lights and walk along Dyer Cove.
Lunch in Portland
Your tour of the lighthouses will have you back in Old Port around lunchtime. Grab a seat outside at the Portland Lobster Company and order up one of their lobster rolls. It’s right on the water, so you can watch the boats coming and going.
Exploring the Streets of Old Port
Walking around Old Port is like stepping back in time. A time of cobblestone streets, 19th-century red brick buildings, and an old fishing village. Venture out on the docks and watch the local fishermen bringing in their daily catch. You could spend the entire day walking around shopping, eating at the many food options, or visiting art galleries.
You will find many unique boutiques, art galleries, and places to duck in for a cold brew, a bite to eat, or that Portland, Maine T-Shirt you have always wanted. Commercial Street, Exchange Street, and Market street are several of the main shopping streets in Portland.
Blue Fin North Atlantic Seafood – Dinner
This was our last night in Portland and after an exhausting day touring lighthouses, we decided to stay close. Blue Fin North Atlantic Seafood is located inside the Portland Harbor Hotel. The cozy seating, fireplace, and lighting created a relaxing atmosphere. It was a bit cool for us when we visited, but when the weather is nice you can dine in their beautifully landscaped garden courtyard.
Bluefin specializes in seafood and is close to the waterfront. They work closely with local fishermen bringing fresh seafood daily. They even grow their own herbs, tomatoes, summer squash, zucchini, and more. The menu changes seasonally. Imagine Shrimp & Lobster tossed in Herb Garlic Butter Sauce with house-made Pappardelle Pasta. That is what I ate when I ordered the Seafood Scampi and it was delicious. I asked that they leave out the shrimp and add more lobster which was no problem.
After dinner head out to the courtyard area to enjoy an after-dinner drink or coffee. Pull up a chair next to the fire and visit with other guests.
Holy Donut
There could not be a better name than Holy Donut for this sweet shop as the taste of their specialty donuts is righteous. Holy Donut uses fresh Maine potatoes mixed with wheat flour that keep the donuts moist. They open every morning at 7 am and close when the donuts run out. I had the toasted coconut, the maple bacon, and the chocolate sea salt. They were all delicious but I have to say, my eyes were bigger than my stomach. They are pretty filling. We took a bag with us and hit the road to Bar Harbor and Acadia National Park on the last leg of the Boston, Lobster, Lighthouse Tour.
Portland was the second leg of our Boston, Lobster, Lighthouse Tour. The first leg was Boston. To catch up, visit Three Days in Boston.
